Spice Coast: A promising concept…

The Nation 25/11/12

A relatively recent entry into the Colombo restaurant scene is ‘Spice Coast’ located on Marine Drive, just past the Bambalapitya Flats. Spice Coast is just one of several restaurants that have taken root along the Marine Drive (Colombo Plan Road) stretch. Therefore, it is only natural that Kaema Dasa checks it out and provides the restaurant goers of Colombo a heads up on the pros and cons of the place.

Pic by Ravindra Dharmathilake

Ambience (5.5)

This is something Spice Coast could have capitalized on. An open view of the Indian Ocean just on the other side of the road, an almost empty road (at night), and somewhat ample parking space around, are some things most restaurants would spend a lot for. If one is practical enough, with an understanding of architecture and interior design, one could work wonders with the location.

This is not to say that the ambience of the place is appalling, but if you’ve been there you’d agree.

The place has gone for a minimalistic look; that much is apparent.

The bare, earth colored walls are actually not bad on the eyes, and the plain cemented floor feels rustic as well. The lighting at night is complimenting of the wall color, which is to say, warm white.

The downside, and serious cause for consideration, of the place are the furniture, and entrance.

The furniture sure does look good, but sadly it all stops right there. Just make sure you don’t drag the chairs, but lift it and pull out if you don’t want to hear the teeth grinding noise. Another annoying feature of the chairs is the fact that you can’t pull your feet under the chair, due to a flat board that it’s made of.

As far as the entrance is concerned, there is a serious lack of foresight evident. The glass walls that make up the entrance are covered by huge banners and what not. A cutout would amply serve to inform passersby that the chefs are Indian, as well as the dishes served at the place. This really gets in the way of enjoying the view of the sea on full moon nights.

Service (5.5)

Nothing much stood out, good or bad, in the quality of service. Sure, some would say that, a restaurant that has just taken root should strive to convey great service to its customers in order to get a foothold in the market, but when has that ever been the case in this part of the world eh? However, were they to achieve that, Spice Coast can actually make a name for itself.

On average, the food takes around 15-30 minutes to arrive at the table. It would appear that the food is not precooked, or refrigerated, well, at least the ones we sampled (More details in the food subsection).

The waiters are punctual, which means, you don’t feel ignored and left out like at some other places we’ve all experienced. They’re also quite a helpful bunch too. On our visit, their recommendations actually panned out to be accurate, which is always a good thing. Hopefully, they maintain this attitude in the future.

Food (6.5)

The food at Spice Coast is primarily Indian (North Indian to be precise). In a scene where there are so many restaurants purporting ‘authentic’ Indian food, it actually is a relief to find places like Spice Coast. Their food (the ones we’ve sampled at least) is quite close to hitting the mark when Indian food is concerned. Though the prices aren’t close to Indian, the food is worth the money spent.

The Butter Naan is always a good place to start when you’re trying out Indian food, and the ones at Spice Coast are quite good. Preparing Naan in under 30 minutes in common place in India, and our chefs take some time to get the hang of it, usually. Good thing the Chefs are Indian eh? Piping hot, just out of the Tandoori Oven, and tender with just the right amount of butter coating, the Butter Naan is just scrumptious.

The Garlic Naan, on the other hand, needs some looking into. The ones we tried had garlic in them, but the taste wasn’t as pervasive as it should have been. It just felt like Butter Naan with bits and pieces of garlic in them.

And when Naan is involved a curry is always a good thing to consider.

The Prawn Hyderabadi will sure make your mouth water (even hearing its name does). The dish is a nice thick red, every drop chock full of spices. The prawns are adequately serenaded with the curry. Just make sure to refrain from dipping your fingers right away if you don’t want to burn your fingers, which is to say the dish is served piping hot, fresh.

Another must try at Spice Coast is the Paneer Butter Masala. Paneer is essentially homemade Indian cheese. The dish is even redder than the Prawn Hyderabadi, but appearances can be deceiving (it’s hardly spicy). The taste of butter and spices are clearly evident as well as in the paneer itself, almost sweet in taste.

Their fresh juices also quite well prepared, and worth ordering.

Verdict:
Spice Coast is a promising concept as a restaurant. Despite the shortcomings mentioned, it is worth a visit. This is one place we’re sure to visit again (not to review of course).

Name:                  Spice Coast

Cuisine:               North Indian

Price Range:       Rs. 700 – 1200

Chinese Dragon Café: still has its fire

The Chinese Dragon Café is probably one of Colombo’s respected and legendary names when it comes to the restaurant scene. It is also one of the oldest too, starting all the way back from 1949. Give it a few more decades and it might set itself as a landmark – probably. Over the years, the restaurant has maintained its standard in quality and service. That being said, it was time for The Nation to put the Chinese Dragon Café to the test. With quite a few outlets open around the town, we stopped off at where it all began, Miligiriya Avenue.

Ambience (5.5)

The rustic feeling that emanates from the building that is the Chinese Dragon Café is rather pleasing. A few Chinese lanterns, here and there, that adorn the place also adds to the overall aesthetics. It is definitely a cozy atmosphere.
What could have spruced up the place? How about some authentic Chinese classical music to go with the authentic Chinese cuisine? A few paintings about Chinese folklore, history wouldn’t hurt either. Playing lousy mundane radio stations doesn’t really make one feel Chinese.
Whatever reasons they had for the fish tank, it sure does entertain the otherwise noisy toddlers.
Showing sports on the TV, like a cricket match, for example, is fine. However, is it not only distracting for the customer, the waiters also unknowingly find themselves caught up in the gravitational pull of the screen.

Service (5.5)

Apart from the waiters, well not all of them and not all of the time, who are prone to direct their attention to the TV, the service at the Chinese Dragon Café is mediocre. Yet, when they are serving you, the customer, by setting tables, taking orders, etc., there is not much to fault.

The hygiene at the place is commendable. Unlike some other places we’ve been to, there wasn’t much in evidence of sticky tables, oily cutlery, dusty carpets, or chipped furniture at the restaurant. So, thumbs up for that.
Expect a 20 – 30 minute time interval before the food is brought to the table.

Food (6.0)

In a landscape that is unforgiving to the disadvantaged and sloppy restaurants, the food (its quality) is possibly the main reason that the Chinese Dragon Café has lasted for as long as it has, and maybe their prices, while managing to secure a foothold for itself.

To begin with, we decided to keep things simple. Usually, the simple dishes are the ones that get the least attention in quality and service, and you could guess why. So, that is exactly what we wanted to inspect.
The Jasmine Steamed Rice is essentially steamed Basmati rice. A portion can easily serve  two. It seems they actually start preparing the rice, i.e., steaming it, after the order is placed, which is evident from the piping hot rice and vapor rising from the white rice.

Since it’s plain rice, a few curries is a good follow through. The Kan Kung with Garlic is a personal favorite, and the Chinese Dragon Café does not disappoint. Served in very generous amounts, the dish can serve at least two people. It’s not too oily and the garlic leaves a tender musky taste to the leaves. However, a few more chunks of garlic, just to munch on, would have pleased an avid garlic fan.

The Sliced Chili Chicken with nuts is a dish worth trying. The chicken pieces are crunchy outside and tender inside. Mix the onions, carrots, and nuts and you’ve got yourself a decent dish. A little more gravy for those diners ordering plain rice would be considerate.

Though some of the dishes lack a spicy taste we Sri Lankans are fond of, there is always the option of trying out the chili paste that’s on the table. This chili paste is spicy enough to even the most raucous spice monger quietly satisfied.

Verdict

The Chinese Dragon is a place I have kept going to for a long time, and it’s safe to say I will be continuing the tradition in the future. What attracts me to the place is that they’ve kept their standards up, and yet sport an economical range of food without compromises. Besides, there’s the Indian Ocean, a hop step and a jump away, down the road; a perfect way to relax after a filling meal.

The Station: An undisturbed, pristine alcove

written for The Nation

It’s rare to come across a restaurant by the beach that’s the only restaurant on that beach. It’s even rarer that many people aren’t aware of it, except for privileged few, given the pristine atmosphere that cocoons it. Even more surprising would be if such a place served really good food, in generous quantities, and didn’t leave your wallet bullet ridden.
All of this and more is what you’ll find at The Station, on Wasala Road, Dehiwala.

Ambience (7.0)

Getting to The Station is a bit tricky. The place is situated right at the end, beyond the railway tracks, a bit obscured by foliage, and the lack of street lamps around that area makes you feel like you’re entering a dodgy area. For a first timer, it will be definitely be an adventure in the night. However, the seclusion, and the adventure of discovery adds a certain enchanting quality to The Station.
To state the obvious, The Station overlooks the Indian Ocean, and being the only restaurant along the stretch, makes it an ideal getaway. As you duck under the mangrove arch that serves as a doorway to enchanted cove, it really makes you feel disconnected from the troubles of the world.

Inside, there are two buildings: a minimalist juice bar with a colonial looking large verandah overlooking the sea, and the other, a two-storey dining cabin made from timber logs. The rest is sand all the way to the small wooden fence, and beyond is the pristine Indian Ocean.

One of the bones to pick with the ambience of the place is the glaring flood lights on the roof of both buildings. The glare of the floodlights would be better suited at an internment camp. The other is the chairs. Chairs with pointy legs tend to sink in the sand, and this leads to a rather constricting feeling if you decide to sit outside.

Service (6.5)

The service at The Station is very commendable, beginning with the ever helpful ‘security’ to the prompt service of the waiting staff. It is this ‘security’ with his flashlight in the dark that indicates the existence of the restaurant in the first place, almost like a lighthouse guiding in lost ships to the secret alcove.
The waiting staff is a decent bunch. They are timely, attentive, and courteous fellows. They seem to know their stuff and their suggestions are mostly reliable. The food will take around 10 – 20 minutes to arrive at the table. Time, however, seems hardly impressionable thanks to the ambience, and the 20 minutes wouldn’t even make itself felt.

Food (6.5)

It’s hard not to say that the whole atmosphere of the place will make you think the food is just great. Yet, the food does deserve commendation even on its own. They are also generous when quantity is concerned.
A portion of steamed Basmati rice will serve two. Unfortunately, the rice is a bit too dry. So make sure to order a curry that isn’t semidry. Or expect to choke on the dry rice.

For vegetarians there are plenty of options, but we tried out the Mixed Mushroom Chinese style dish. The dish contains oyster, and some button mushrooms, as well as baby corn all prepared in soy sauce syrup. The tender mushroom and the soft crunchy baby corn will be like crunchy cotton candy in your mouth sans the sweetness.
The Chilli Fish dish is another dish that should be tried out. Filled with more fish chunks than onion slices, the dish will serve to delight. The cashew that is spruced here and there, adds a great flavor to the dish. The soft, yet rubbery fish will be a pleasure trip for your mouth as the faintest hint of goraka (gambooge) juice mixes with your saliva, when you keep munching.

Then there is the Crispy Beef Schezuan style dish. Crispy doesn’t begin to describe the beef in it. Onions, capsicum, spring onions, carrot, and shredded beef come together to bring a ‘crispy’ experience. The crunchy spring onions and the beef will create an euphony of tastes in your mouth.
All three dishes are superb, and are very generous in quantity which is very surprising considering the price of each.

Verdict:

I’m so glad I stumbled into this place. The perfect spot to spend an evening sipping a fruit juice and gaze at the setting sun. Meeting friends over dinner? Don’t look anywhere else. This is somewhere I’ll definitely be visiting regularly. And no annoying beach tourists to distract you from the beauty of the entire scene.

Name:               The Station
Cuisine:             Chinese
Price Range:     Rs. 700 – 1200

Eid Mubarak!

As yet another Ramadan comes to conclusion, I’d like to wish all the Muslim readers Eid Mubarak!

May it be filled with many a Watalappan! 😉